Portlights 1...

The portlights need to be accurately located on the outside of the cabin sides to match the existing portlight cutouts in the doublers.

A ball bearing at the top of the router bit follows the outline of this pattern for the starboard aft portlight.  The pattern will be flipped to make the cutout for the port aft portlight.

A backing ring, shown here on the port side, adds thickness/strength for the portlight cutout.

The starboard aft portlight ring glued in with corner fillets.

Starboard aft portlight cutout partially routed out.

Starboard aft cutout completed.

Aft port side completed.  These cutouts allow for fitting the flat laminated glass portlights into the curved cabin sides.

Cabin sides...

The cabin sides are made up from a full-length strake on the outside and a shorter doubler layer inside providing additional rigidity in way of the cabin windows and chainplates.

Dry fitting of the doubler on the inside with window cutouts and a portion of the full-length strake on the outside.  After these parts are glued in, a reinforcing ring will be glued on the inside and the outside will be routed out to receive the flat, laminated safety glass windows.

The full-length outside cabin side strakes are glued together and are being reinforced with glass cloth.  Doubler with window cutouts can be seen on the left.  Full-length strakes and doubler will be glued to the boat at the same time.

 

Joe helps with the glueing.  West System 206 hardener was used for additional time for the assembly.

Update...

Counter top/shelf assemblies are now installed on both sides of the cabin as well as the diagonal ring frames.

Here is the underside of the starboard shelf assembly.   The fillets are reinforced with 2 layers of 200g glass cloth.

The next phase will be the cabin sides which have doublers in way of the windows.

Starboard side doubler

Starboard side doubler with a part of the full- length strake being fitted.

Dry fit of port side strake viewed from the bow

Strakes back on the table with puzzle joint glued and 300 g glass on outside.

Joe is helping prepare the inside of the strakes for the 200g glass skin.

Chainplates...

Eric and Paul have designed integral carbon fiber chainplates for this boat - very light and strong.

6mm ply backing plates go inside the hull.  Starting from the
blank at the top, the ply is tapered with a hand plane then glued
to the top inside surface of hull strake #4.

A cutout at the top of hull strake #4 is marked and cut.

Garolite (G-10) is a high strength epoxy-grade industrial
laminate sometimes called phenolic.   A 1/2" thick G-10 plate
was routed with a carbide cutter to accept a G-10 tube.

The assembly glued onto the hull.  Layers of carbon laminate will run up the outside of the hull over this structure and down the inside of the hull.

Simon Miles spent a day in my shop showing me how
carbon laminating is done.

The finished laminate covered with peel ply

Speaking of Simon, here is the beautiful keel he made me.  He also
made my bowsprit and is working on my mast.

The cured chainplate with excess laminate removed.  After the cabin sides go on, two notches will be cut in these chainplates to accept toggles for the standing rigging.  An additional single chain plate will be added to the cabin side.

Settee Bunk Tops...

Settee top support framework

A straightedge helps align settee top supports

Access port covers are supported by rings that also stiffen the settee top.

Underside of settee top gets 2 coats of unthickened epoxy sealer.

Inside of hull with 2 coats of epoxy sealer. 

Companionway Bulkhead...

Companionway bulkhead clamped and wired in position

Lower outboard ends of bulkhead fit nicely on floors

Seams have been glued and wires removed.

Triangular pieces at forward end of cockpit soften corner
at foot end of settee.

Fillets added to seams in cockpit

Traveler Beam...

Eric had a nice piece of Alaskan yellow cedar that I ripped, laminated,
and shaped for the traveler beam.

Gluing in place using most all of my clamps